Olde Italian’s die hard


Your Doctor had heard tell of an Italian eatery of some repute. One could not leave such a stone unturned. So off one trotted with Fortescue limping behind. His gout playing merry hell and requiring a good helping of medicinal alcohol to help him along.

One found Polpo in Maiden Lane opposite Rules, a fine establishment. The decor was deliberately olde and basic. Wooden tables and chairs, stonework showing. None of this modern airy fairy cream walls with linen. No, Polpo is an earthy eatery.

One was greeted by a friendly waitress and was escorted down to the basement level. “Woe is me”, thought I as one is never to enamoured of basements in restaurants. However, one need not have worried as clever use of an architect’s noddle to put a gap between the wall and the upstairs floor. Wizard idea! The hubbub from downstairs and upstairs mixed to create a very genial atmosphere. It was mostly a younger crowd.

One ordered a Valpolicella, some Borlotti beans with sausage and meatballs with pasta. One found the wine very palatable. One found the dishes were reasonably tasty but not overwhelmingly so which disappointed. The piece de resistance was the runner beans with pecorino and red onion which was delightful, as was the poached peach with marscapone.

Alas, one has decided that this eatery was interesting but not a place for a distinguished gent. Off for a cocktail Fortescue!!


6 Maiden Lane
London WC2E 7NA
Tel: 020 7836 8448

Categories: A tout le monde, Guiffart, London, Stable (££)

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